At the very edge of Normandy lies a wind-swept land of wild, singular scenery where the sea and the soil seem almost inseparable. It inspired the poet Jacques Prévert and the painter Jean-François Millet, and today it draws walkers looking for a change of scene and a little adventure.
This place is the Pointe de la Hague, right at the tip of the Cotentin peninsula in the Manche département. Setting out from Cherbourg and following the old customs officers’ path, we’ll take you to discover this land’s end and the sights you really shouldn’t miss.
1) Cherbourg
Just 3 hours 15 from Paris by train, Cherbourg is the Cotentin’s gateway to the sea. With five harbours (marina, naval, commercial, fishing and cruise) and the largest artificial roadstead in Europe, this is a town that looks firmly out to the water.
Thanks to the major works carried out by the architect Vauban, the town became an important naval port from the reign of Louis XIV onwards, before turning into a departure point for countless ocean liners bound for the New World in the second half of the 19th century. The Titanic itself called here in 1912 on its maiden voyage.
We’d recommend a visit to the former Transatlantic station, which today houses the famous Cité de la Mer, a museum that traces the story of mankind and the oceans through a series of exhibitions. Don’t miss the tour of the submarine Le Redoutable, then enjoy a stroll along the quays and through the town’s many gardens.
2) Le Landemer
Only a few kilometres from the centre of Cherbourg, we begin our walk on the GR 223, commonly known as the customs officers’ path, heading towards La Hague. Very quickly the houses give way to a steep, green and rocky coastline, where we make our way through heath, ferns and the beaches that gave this spot its name: Le Landemer. These are landscapes that inspired the painter Jean-François Millet, a native of La Hague, as the many information boards along the path make clear.
3) Omonville-la-Rogue
The old fort overlooking the bay offers a wonderful view over the little village and fishing harbour of Omonville-la-Rogue. Just 2 km from the village, the former Manoir du Tourp lets you learn more about the people and history of La Hague and the Cotentin. A lovely interactive film is shown there, along with several temporary exhibitions.
4) Port Racine
After Omonville and the Pointe de Jardeheu, with its old semaphore station of the same name, we reach the Anse Saint-Martin and the smallest harbour in mainland France: Port Racine. It takes its name from the Napoleonic privateer François Médard Racine, who had this tiny harbour built and used it as a base and shelter so he could better attack English ships.
5) The Goury lighthouse and La Petite Irlande
At the very tip of La Hague stands the Goury lighthouse, a landmark for boats making their way through the turbulent waters of the Raz Blanchard, home to one of the most powerful tidal currents in Europe. Out to sea, you can easily make out the Channel Island of Alderney. The surrounding pastures, dry-stone walls and stone houses have earned this far-flung corner its nickname of “Little Ireland”.
Carrying on along the GR, you climb back up through the heath before a fresh panorama, every bit as breathtaking, opens up before you: the Baie d’Écalgrain. An absolute feast for the eyes!
Walking in the Cotentin
6) The Nez de Jobourg
This geological curiosity is one of the best-known spots in the Cotentin, and also one of the oldest. From the top of the Nez de Jobourg, 128 metres up, the GR 223 continues along coves and cliffs that are just as spectacular. This is the most demanding stretch of the trip, but it’s well worth the effort.
7) The Biville dunes
The cliffs and rugged relief come to an end, and from the village of Vauville the coast gives way to an impressive run of dunes. Shaped by the tides and by time, they stretch for nearly 8 km from north to south and up to 2 km wide. The viewpoint over the Biville dunes rises to 114 metres above sea level. Listed by the Conservatoire du Littoral, they are also home to almost 184 plant and animal species.
While we wait to take you onto the next section of the GR 223 and the wonderful landscapes and villages of the southern Cotentin, we hope this article has given you the urge to come and walk the paths of La Hague, a truly one-of-a-kind part of Normandy that will delight every walker and traveller in search of authenticity, nature and a real change of scene.
