La Vélomaritime from Mont-Saint-Michel to Roscoff
After riding the Véloscénie from Paris down to Mont-Saint-Michel, we carry straight on along La Vélomaritime. This stretch of EuroVelo 4 runs all the way from Dunkirk, on the Belgian border, to Roscoff in Brittany, hugging the French coast the whole way. You can ride it in full or pick just one section; here we set off again from Mont-Saint-Michel.
From Mont-Saint-Michel to Cancale along La Vélomaritime
The bay of Mont-Saint-Michel sets the scene, as La Vélomaritime loops right around it. Following the Couesnon, the river that placed the Mount in Normandy by marking the border between Brittany and Normandy, you cross the polders to reach Cherrueix, with its famous windmills facing the sea and the equally well-known Saint Anne chapel standing alone among the salt meadows. You then pass through Le Vivier-sur-Mer, known for its shellfish farming, before arriving in Cancale, prized for its oysters.
From Cancale to Saint-Malo
Once you have had your fill of Cancale oysters, ride on through the village of Saint-Coulomb which, in a little-known piece of trivia, was used as a location for the film Armageddon with Bruce Willis. Don’t miss the Carved Rocks of Rothéneuf, a strange world of figures from another age. This work of naive art, created by the abbé Fouré, tells the story of the Rothéneuf family of privateers, pirates and nobles. Ahead in the distance you can already make out Saint-Malo and its famous ramparts.
From Saint-Malo to Erquy
A proper seaside feel runs through this stage between Saint-Malo and Dinard, with a short maritime interlude as you take the sea bus between the corsair city of Saint-Malo and Dinard.
After that, La Vélomaritime pulls away from the coast and winds through open countryside. You meet the sea again in style: from Cap Fréhel, the view from the top of the cliffs is breathtaking. Then comes Erquy, often called the scallop capital, where a tasty stop is well worth making.
From Erquy to Saint-Brieuc
Cap d’Erquy makes for a lovely detour, with coves you can reach by bike and stunning panoramas. Make the most of it, because after Pléneuf-Val-André and Dahouët the climbs get fairly tough, and the route then follows the curve of the Bay of Saint-Brieuc. Look out for the Tour de Cesson and the double-deck bridge. And why not visit the brickworks museum at Saint-Ilan, the only museum in France partly devoted to the history of a local railway line.
From Saint-Brieuc to Paimpol
A classic Breton atmosphere leads you to Binic and its marina right in the heart of town, though you’ll have to pedal hard out of Saint-Brieuc to reach the Parfond du Gouët viaduct and its greenway above the port. From there the resorts come one after another, with the famous fishing port of Saint-Quay-Portrieux and the cliffs around Plouha. Whatever you do, don’t miss Le Palus beach, the perfect spot for a well-earned rest.
The route then runs high above the Bréhec cove along the “cliff road”, and you finish in fine style at Beauport abbey before reaching Paimpol, famous for its shipowners’ houses and its charming little streets.
From Paimpol to Lannion
From the very rural, farming landscape around Paimpol bay, two superb views open up over the Trieux valley and the Jaudy valley as you make your way to Tréguier, the historic capital of the Trégor. You’ll have to tackle the wooded slopes of the Jaudy estuary to reach Perros-Guirec. A coastal alternative asks more of your legs: it runs through Buguélès and its tide mill, across the landscapes of the Port-Blanc archipelago, with remarkable views that the crowds have yet to find.
This wonderful stage along the Pink Granite Coast, with its views over the coves around the rocky headland of Le Castel, will have you longing for a well-earned dip. Then it’s on towards the flower-lined banks of the Léguer to reach the Trémeur headland.
From Lannion to Roscoff
Leaving Lannion, enjoy the sweeping view from the clifftop down towards the bay of Saint-Michel-en-Grève, then head for the greenway at Ploumilliau, where a detour down to the harbour at Locquémeau along the Trédrez cliffs comes highly recommended.
At Locquirec you cross into Finistère, by way of the long beach at the head of the bay. Here you’ll see the Pointe du Château and the harbour before following the wild coastline and its many sheltered coves.
It’s worth visiting the parish close of Saint-Jean-du-Doigt, a reminder of the crowds of pilgrims who flocked here in the 15th century to come near the relic of Saint John the Baptist.
From Plougasnou you then follow the coast to soon discover the Bay of Morlaix, with its rocky points and the Château du Taureau guarding the mouth of the Morlaix river. This Vauban fortress can be visited by boat from Carantec or Plougasnou. There’s also the Île Louët, a tiny scrap of rock that looks just a few strokes away yet stays out of reach on foot, even at low tide, and the many islets of the bird reserve. Keep pedalling on towards the historic town of Morlaix.
The miles roll by and at last the finish line of La Vélomaritime comes into view. You finally reach Roscoff, where the famous pink onion welcomes you: this is the land of the Johnnies, the onion sellers.
You can visit the museum dedicated to them, “La Maison des Johnnies et de l’Oignon de Roscoff”, to learn the story of these locals who once sailed from Roscoff to the English coast to sell their prized onions.
Wander the little streets of Roscoff, between corsair houses and stone manors, and come out on the harbour facing the fishing and pleasure boats. Take a moment to unwind before setting off across the waters of the English Channel once more. Nothing could be simpler: just hop on the shuttle boat to the Île de Batz, a true cyclists’ paradise, where bikes have right of way and cars aren’t allowed. Don’t miss the Georges Delaselle exotic garden at the southern tip of the island, where you’ll feel as though you’ve landed in the tropics. One last little effort takes you to the Grève Blanche beach. Facing the sea in this end-of-the-world setting, settle in comfortably for one of the island’s finest sights: the sun setting over the water.
Congratulations, you can be proud of yourself: you’ve just completed the 530km (minimum) of La Vélomaritime between Mont-Saint-Michel and Roscoff.
